Tubal Cain Mine…and Yours

TUBAL CAIN MINE AND BUCKHORN LAKE TRAIL REPORT

Buckhorn Lake Trail

History:

Tubal Cain Mine, named after Tubal-cain from the Book of Genesis in the Bible (who happened to be a metal smith who worked with bronze and iron), was founded in 1902, and abandoned in the 1920s after being both too remote and not profitable. Miles from anywhere, the mine sits empty, with debris still around the area for creative campers to use around the camp sites.

Directions:

Buckhorn Wildernes Sign

From Sequim, turn right on Louella Road, just after Sequim Bay State Park. After a mile, turn left on Palo Alto Road and weave your way up hill until you get to Forest Service Road 2880. Follow the dirt road past Dungeness Campground for 1.7 miles. Turn left on Forest Service Road 2870 and enter the Buckhorn Wilderness Area. Keep to the right on Forest Service Road 2870 and continue along the windy, Rhododendron lined dirt road for about 10 miles until you get to the parking lot for the trail. (On the Right)  

Review:

The view from FS Road 2870

Nearly 22 miles South East of Sequim, one doesn’t immediately think of awesomeness. Don’t get me wrong, the area is beautiful, but it is so remote that I typically just glance out the car window as I fly by on my way to Hurricane Ridge, Dungeness Spit or the Lake Crescent area. However, if you take the time to stop off in the area, a very pleasant, gorgeous surprise will await you.

Once you drive down the steep hills, and weave your way back up into the areas with sweeping vistas of the Olympic Mountains, one really feels like they are back in the Days of Exploration. While the road is wide enough to feel safe on, driving to the trailhead provides you with the thrill that only a dirt road with a nearly a thousand foot drop can provide. The road is gorgeous, lined with Rhododendron plants and the occasional deer and rabbit, but be cautious of potholes from the rough winters we have had. As I drove down this road, I listened to Inna Godda Da Vida as loud as I could, with my windows down. Sure, this may not be completely respectful of nature, I enjoyed myself greatly.

Emergency Shelter

You will soon come down the hill a little bit, and this is where I would stop and use the bathroom. You reach the parking lot for another trailhead, and this is the only port potty within miles. I stopped here, and so should you! Once you relieve yourself and stretch your legs, the road continues for only a few more miles before you get to the Tubal Cain Mine-Buckhorn Lake Trailhead.

Rhododendrons on the trail

Creek Crossing at the start of the trail

The trail head is simple, but immediately on the trail, you realize just how far in you are. Less than one tenth of a mile in you pass a rescue shelter for when storms roll in. Make sure you sign in at the trailhead as well, as the weather may change quickly. The trail crosses a little creek and steady climbs, albeit very minimal for the next 3 miles. In mid-summer, this trail is like the 4^th of July, with Rhododendrons blooming like fireworks in the sky. With reds and purples exploding through the layers of green, the body doesn't seem to mind the steady incline that this trail gives. From what I know, this trail is similar in its rhododendron population to remote areas of Tibet, so take in the sights and smells, because this place is rare.

Tubal Cain Mine

Debris from the Mine

Once you arrive at the Mine area the trail basically disappears. You know you have arrived at this point because there is a lot of old mine debris that litters the area. With a campground located basically on the trail, and hundreds of campers stomping down a path to everywhere, the trail becomes difficult to follow. If you are interested in going to the Mine, stay on the left and you will see a large gravel deposit, with a horrible steep incline of scree. This is how you get to the Mine, and trust me, it is worth it. While it isn’t advised to go into the mineshaft, take a few minutes and take some pictures from inside. Rarely can one find such a remote cave that is so intact.

After getting your fill of spelunking, head down the scree pile and continue to the river that is visible from the mine shaft. This is where the trail to Lake Buckhorn starts. Find a place to cross (I found a few old logs that served as a makeshift bridge) and head up the switchbacks that soon giving you an amazing view of the rugged mountains of the Olympic Mountain Range. With wildflowers blooming and butterflies fluttering around, all with Iron Mountain, Mount Buckhorn and The Needles serving as a backdrop, this trail quickly entered my list of favorite places on earth. The trail is 4 long switchbacks, giving you plenty of opportunity to take pictures, soak up the sights and walk 5.5 miles until you reach the junction to drop down a few hundred feet to Buckhorn Lake. While the snow stopped me (I decided not to be uber-prepared and left the crampons in my car) from reaching the lake, I still feel like I had a successful hike. 

The view from the Buckhorn Lake Trail

With high alpine views, a lunchtime meditation at over 5,300 feet, and the chance to watch a few does graze in the meadow below me, the Buckhorn Wilderness Area is a now one of my favorite areas. With unrivaled beauty, flowers, animals, insects, rivers, a mine and high alpine ridge trails, this area is friendly for families, dogs and solo individuals who want to get back in touch with the magnificence that is the Olympic Peninsula.

 

What to bring:

-          Raingear

-          A Flashlight

-          Camera

-          Bandaids

-          Water

-          Food

-          Binoculars

-          Bug Spray

See you on the trails soon!

Douglas Scott

Exotic Hikes

(360)350-8938

Why I Hike

                After being asked this question nearly every day, I decided I would finally put these words down on record, hopefully inspiring some for you to discuss your reasons for hiking. I also do this in hope that my story, like your stories, will get passed down through the generations, building hiking up for future adventurers.

Mt. Erie, Wa

I remember my first hike, years ago on Deception Pass. Well, I wouldn’t call it a hike. I remember getting shoulder rides and carried by both my parents during this hot summer day. I must have been 5 or 6 years old, but being out in the woods with my family made me happy at that young age. I felt safe, I felt a sense of adventure, and above all, I felt loved by my parents and nature.

My home away from Washington

I have always had a life where I was connected to the outdoors, from family birding trips and day hikes, to travelling to national parks around the country and visiting Yellowstone for 10 straight years, nature has been in my veins. At the age of 13 I did my first long hike across the Olympic Peninsula. Taking 7 days and carrying a pack of 55 pounds when I only weighed like 105 (long story for a later date); we explored and connected with nature. At the age of 19 I left college at worked near Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons. Having three days off a week gave me time to explore so many areas that I almost decided then and there to never go back to a city or a college. Instead, I left, went back to school, graduated and soon was serving 2 years in China with the Peace Corps. I would have to say that China is where hiking went from a hobby to an obsession.

The Great Wall of China

If you ever go to China, you will be told repeatedly that they have over 5000 years of culture. This is more than likely true, and for some is viewed as a great achievement. However, in my 2 years there, I realized that all the roads, trails and forests I was walking in, 5000 years’ worth of people have been traversed same area. It was then and there that I realized just how special the Olympic Peninsula is. Yes, there is a history of peoples here for tens of thousands of years, but the area is so rugged and underdeveloped that it gives you the sense that you are out there exploring an area untouched my humans. China did not give me that impression at all, so upon my return, I vowed to explore the mountains as often as I could.

The Grand Tetons from Jackson, Wy

When I returned from China, personal struggles and family illness took over, and hiking fell away for a while. However, whenever I would feel that life was just putting too much on my plate and I was near my breaking point, I would take a hike, and drift back into the woods where the only reality was the one I was in. Hiking became my safe place, my happy place, my place of healing. Being alone on a mountain, sitting along an alpine lake and being able to finally get away from the distractions of life to focus on getting in touch with nature and myself is my therapy. The repetitive steps trudging down a path, up a hillside of scree or wading through a river all take focus away from the pains and sorrow that life so often brings and allows you to be alive.

Finding the meaning of life, Hurricane Ridge, Olympic National Park

Hiking to me gives a sense of adventure that I thought was long since lost when I became an adult. Hiking to me is about experiencing nature on a holistic level. Mountains that appear as one become individual rocks and dirt; tall cedar trees become vulnerable strips of bark, needles and branches, all working together to form this massive plant. Much like those, hiking has taught me that my life isn’t as complex as I make it. Life is a series of small parts coming together to become what we perceive as reality, yet, just like a hike, some parts are easier than others, but no less important. Hiking has allowed me to see life for what it is and have a new level of enjoyment in every activity. Without hiking, I don’t know where I would be in life. Luckily, hiking is always there for me, and when I lace up my boots, strap on my backpack and take that first step, all the worry in the world drifts away and I get to become innocent and adventurous again.

So, that is why I hike...how about you????

See you on the trails,

Douglas Scott

Exotic Hikes

An Amateur Bird Watches Guide to the Nisqually Wildlife Refuge

From the Pond/River Area

Nisqually Sunset

Located just 10 miles from Olympia, or 50 miles south of Seattle, the refuge boasts over 3000 acres of wetlands, making this a fantastic birding hangout. Recently expanded to include a boardwalk, you can easily walk over 4 miles of restored wetlands. With numerous bird species migrating to the area, as well as many local and regional birds calling it home, this is the best place to come watch birds year round. The refuge is basically broken up into three sections, which are the pond/river walk, the raised dike and the new boardwalk. Each section is unique, giving you a different set of nature in each area.

Geese Flock

Raccoons in the Pond 

Great Blue Heron

 The first section you will enter is just past the visitor’s center and is the Pond/River walk area. This section is best taken along the old board walk, giving you views of the ponds where ducks, turtles and the occasional Nutria can be spotted. During the spring, Great Horned Owls can be spotted near the barns, on the section of the wooden walkway between the river and the barns. During salmon runs, eagles and seals can be spotted in large number along the river. This place is great to take young kids, as it is a short, easy walk. At the end of the trail, you reach the barn area where there are Port-a-potties and picnic tables. A word of caution: If you decide to picnic here, the squirrels in the area are somewhat aggressive.

Peregrine Falcon

The second area of Nisqually Wildlife Refuge is the raised gravel dike just past the barns. In good weather this area offers amazing views of the Olympic Mountains. It also shows off the mud flats on the right side and a pond, which is usually full of ducks and geese, on the left. This is also a great place to see Herons, Bitterns and many other species of waterfowl. In bad weather this place can be a bit cold, and with no trees to cover you, you might get a bit wet. However, in good weather, this area is amazing. With dead tree trucks littering the mud flats, this is an ideal place to watch hawks and eagles groom, eat and pose for pictures. 

Bald Eagles

 The last section is new, but so far is the most popular area. This boardwalk, complete with covered shelters, lookouts with spotting scopes and information displays gives you the opportunity to walk over a flood plain. Make sure you check the tides, as low tide and high tide both have limited bird activity. Also, make sure you read all signs, as the boardwalk is occasionally closed due to hunting. In good weather, the boardwalk offers amazing views of Mt. Rainier, the Puget Sound, and the Tacoma Narrows Bridge. All along the boardwalk one can see Great Blue Herons, Eagles and numbers of different type of ducks. At the end of the boardwalk there is a lookout, allowing a panorama view of the area, as well as a place that is covered to watch eagles, herons and the occasional King Fisher. This section is a fantastic destination in good weather and even on a misty day, though if it is a super wet day, I may avoid it.

Marsh Hawk

Reflecting Heron

 Overall, the Nisqually Wildlife Refuge is a fantastic place to go birding for all levels of birders. If you are a beginner or an expert, this area gives you plenty to see in the air, off in the distance or along the waterways. Nisqually Wildlife Refuge is a great day trip away from the hustle and bustle of the city, giving you a few laces to see how nature was before humans interacted too much. If migratory birds can visit this place once a year, you should be able to make it at least twice; after all, this place has gone to the birds.  For more information, check out the quick facts below!

See you on the trails,

Douglas Scott

Bittern

Immature Bald Eagle

 Quick Facts:

Location: South Puget Sound, exit 114, North of Olympia

Trails: Well-groomed gravel /boardwalk

Distance of Trails: Over 4 Miles

Cost: $3 permit per family (pay outside of visitor center)

What you might want to bring: Binoculars, bird book, good shoes, rain gear, sun screen and water

Sights: Eagles, Geese, Owls, Hawks, Ducks, Herons, numerous waterfowl and other birds, Seals, Salmon, Deer, Raccoons, Foxes, Mt Rainier, the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, Mt. Constance, The Olympic Mountains, and Wetlands…just to name a few!

Best time to visit: Fall and Winter because of salmon runs and migratory birds.

Mt Rainier from the boardwalk

Where to best see:

Eagles: Pond/ River Walk, Raised Dike, Boardwalk

Ducks: Pond/ River Walk, Raised Dike

Blue Herons: Raised Dike, Boardwalk

Hawks: Raised Dike, Boardwalk

Geese: Pond/ River Walk, Raised Dike

                Owls: Pond/River Walk

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-4ncJ9NU1

Great Horned Owls

Lake Crescent and Marymere Falls: One of the Olympic Peninsula's Best Areas!

Beautiful Lake Crescent

Miles away from the hustle and bustle of the I-5 Corridor, Washington’s second deepest lake hides to the 17 miles west of the beautiful city of Port Angeles. Serving as a gateway to the Northern Olympic Peninsula, Port Angeles usually boasts it’s gem of Hurricane Ridge, but don’t be fooled, Lake Crescent should be a major tourist draw. Home to popular trails, swimming spots and amazing views, Lake Crescent also boasts a lodge that is second to none. Lake Crescent is located near 2 great trails that are family friendly and host amazing views. Both the Spruce Railroad trail and the Marymere Falls trail will give you a great day hike, or a romantic getaway with memories to last a life time.

Mt Storm King and the Ranger Station

                Built in 1916, this turn of the century lodge seems like it belongs more in the alpine hills of Europe than it does in the Rain Forest of the Olympic Peninsula. However, once viewing this picturesque cottage, one easily falls in love with its location and rustic settings. The lodge, which sits on the banks of Lake Crescent, is perfectly situated to explore the northern Olympic Peninsula during the day, and staying in a relaxing, quaint cottage for the night. The Lake Crescent Lodge recently was put on the list of lodges that the National Park Service will be remodeling, making this lodge even more attractive and hospitable in the future.

                From the Lake Crescent Lodge, a quick walk will place you at the Storm King Ranger Station, giving you views of Mt. Storm King and Pyramid Peak, which used to be a World War II spotter cabin to watch for Japanese aircrafts that may attack Puget Sound. Looking like the fjords of Norway, Lake Crescent sits at the bottom of these small, rugged peaks. The log cabin style Storm King Ranger station, when open, will give you the history of the area, as well as provide some pretty fantastic pictures of the region. It is by this ranger station that the Marymere Falls trail is located.

Mt. Storm King Trail

                Well marked, easily followed and basically a flat walk through the dense forests of the Northern Olympic Peninsula Rain Forest. At 1.5 miles round trip, this trail is less of a hike and more of a walk. Half a mile down the trail, a fork appears, and if feeling adventurous, you can go climb Mt. Storm King, which is a 3.8 mile round trip hike in which you gain 1700 feet. At 2400ft, Mt Storm King offers fantastic views of Lake Crescent, as well as a great picnic spot away from the throngs of hikers on the Marymere Falls trail. However, if you decide to go to the falls and battle the crowds, you will be greatly rewarded. After you cross the new metal bridge over the river, the last 400ft of the trail climbs pretty steadily along a ridge, leading you to a great view of Marymere Falls. Take your time walking up this railed path, enjoy the greens of the rain forests and soon you will be given a breathtaking view of a small, yet gorgeous waterfall. At a height of 90ft, this waterfall is impressive in its simplicity.

Wooden Bridge Leading to Marymere Falls

                After a short hike back to the Ranger Station, you still have time to hop in your car and drive about 4 miles west until you get to Camp David Jr. Road, which is home to the Spruce Railroad Trail. The Spruce Railroad Trail, which was built as a working railway during World War I, was going to be used to transport Spruce trees to Port Angeles to build airplanes during the war, however, before the railway was completed, the war ended and the forests was not harvested. The trail is long, but flat, making it perfect for the family in nearly any weather. At around 8 miles round trip, it is long, but the plus side is that it is one of the few trails in any National Park that allows dogs and bikes. While there are a few places where the hillside has come over the trail, it is completely safe and well marked.

Marymere Falls

                On the Spruce Railroad Trail, one can see many things, ranging from scenic views and railroad tunnels to deep swimming holes and abandoned telegraph poles. One of the highlights of the trail, aside from the caves that used to be railroad tunnels is the Devil’s Punchbowl. A popular swimming hole in warm weather, the Devil’s Punchbowl is the ideal swimming hole. At nearly 100ft deep right next to the cliff, it is a safe place for swimmers and divers to jump for joy into an alpine lake. The severe drop off at Devil’s Punchbowl isn’t limited to that area, as Lake Crescent itself is officially 600ft deep, but some recent studies have placed it over 1000ft deep, making this hidden gem even more mysterious.

Devil's Punch Bowl on Lake Crescent

                Overall, the Lake Crescent area is so diverse it is best for a three day weekend, but you can do it over a day, albeit a long day. Driving up from Olympia, you can hike both trails, site see and have a few good meals and get back home in less than 12 hours. While this may seem a bit much, the views, the drive and the experience to enjoy one of Washington’s most underrated areas is well worth the trip. Do it this weekend, do it on your day off…do it now and enjoy Lake Crescent before the crowds arrive this summer! Book a tour with Exotic Hikes today and receive a free limited edition Marymere Falls print!

Sunset on the Olympic Mountains from Hood Canal

Until I see you on the trails, stay safe and keep experiencing the Olympic Peninsula!
Douglas Scott
Exotic Hikes
(360)350-8938

*Editor’s note: Obey all signs, check weather conditions and bring plenty of food and water, as there are no water sources on the trail.